This is the main dial, which shows the six existing bands. There is no indication about which band is selected with the 'RANGE' control, so it is a bit difficult to read until you get used to it.
This is the main dial, which shows the six existing bands. There is no indication about which band is selected with the 'RANGE' control, so it is a bit difficult to read until you get used to it.
Here you have the logging dial. It has an scale from 0 to 99 and is mechanically linked to the main dial to ensure proper logging of the stations. As you can see, the RCA logo is rusty. This is perhaps the worst condition part found in this set!. I plan to restore it with some silver paint.
The elusive 'S-meter' (well, at least is a signal level indication)!. Most AR-88s were manufactured without it, due to the scarcity in WW-II time. This seems to be original. As a curiosity, it works backwards.
Another S-meter view, this time from the back.
Another front panel close view. This is the (missing) tag!. You can see the four holes where the tag should be... Please, if anybody has an original tag, I would like to get an scanned picture in order to reproduce it. Thanks!.
The front panel has two modifications: an added power switch and an extra headphones connector. The power switch is really a must, as the original way to switch the power on and off has an intermediate position ('TRANS') which leaves the HV floating at about 500V. Then, when you enable the receiver ('REC MOD' or 'REC CW') the tubes get a big HV stroke, which is over specifications in some cases. So the power switch saves the receiver of these voltage spikes. I don't plan to remove it.
Here you have a general view from the top, with the cover open.
This is the RF section, with the RF cover removed. You can see also an original tool at the left side :-). Now I need just the big one to get the complete set...
...as the small allen tool is also present!
This is one of the troubles with AR-88 receivers: this block has three oil (PCB) filled filter capacitors which are usually leaking (my unit has this problem). PCBs are dangerous so the best way to go is to replace the full block with newer capacitors. If you want to keep the appearance, you can CAREFULLY extract the PCB and put new capacitors inside. But it is really risky and the PCBs should be specially dispossed in some countries.
Here you have another internal view.
This is the speaker I got with the set. It is not the original one, but its appearance is very close to it.